Engineering Advice needed

[Lupe]

(Actually, not sure it qualifies as "engineering" advice, but I know that title will attract the attention of the right people)

I'm rather disappointed to learn that right now Jackson boats don't have any straps/bungees for securing a drink or rope in front of the seat. So I unfortunately need to take a drill or a saw or some such thing to my brand new boat so that I can improvise my own storage system.

I'm looking for advise on the best way to cut into the hard plastic track that runs along the floor. It has raised sections where I should be able to add a bungee or a strap. My preference is to cut a slot in each side through which I can slide a webbing strap through, which I can then use to buckle in either a water bottle or more likely my throw bag.

What would be the best tool for cutting a slot into that hard plastic, also keeping in mind 1) tight quarters to maneuver in there, so whatever tool I use can't be too bulky, and 2) needs to be easily controlled (so as to not lose control and slip and damage the actual inside of my kayak hull).

Any ideas?

Alternatively, I suppose I could glue d-rings on the floor canoe-style? That would let me avoid any cutting/drilling. Not sure how well contact cement or epoxy would hold d-ring patches on kayak plastic though.

Thanks for any suggestions! Cheers

[Canoe_Codger]

I add tiedown points and bungee to my canoes using star expanding rivets and nylon eyepads or hooks. All of this is available in kit form from most outfitters. These rivets will expand inside of hollow spaces so you don't have to drill completely through and add a washer to back them.



You can then attach the bungee or strap through the loops you have riveted on.



Michael

[Deuce]

For that type of application a Dremmel cutting/finishing wheel would probably work. It's supposed to leave behind a smooth finish. If you decided to go with D Rings G Flex would do the trick. It's nice to have around anyway.

[Twindad]

Google "D-ring pads and G/flex epoxy".

Sorry for the Android post duplication, in advance.

[SteveGabbard]

If you decide to cut slots I agree with Luke. A dremmel tool would be best. I have one I could loan you. If you are nervous about it I have no qualms with using a high speed cutting device in someone else's brand new boat

[Lupe]

Thanks for the replies!

I used a dremel to cut replacement deck plates for my canoe out of a similar hard plastic material, and I didn't feel the cutting was great...not sure if that could be user error or I didn't have the best bit tips, but that makes me leery of using a dremel for this. I hadn't thought of rivets...I used rivets in a canoe project years ago and still have my rivet gun, so actually I think I may see if that would work! Great idea!

And I can always fall back on d-rings glued in after I make a bunch of un-useable holes along the floor track.

Thanks for offering to wield the sharp instruments inside my new boat for me, Steve! What a guy!

No big rush on this project, so feel free to pitch other ideas if you have them!

[SteveGabbard]

One of the little cutting wheels(round discs) is what you would want. Is the seat track welded too tight to slip some webbing underneath?

And the offer still stands!!

[Lupe]

Yeah, that sucker's welded in there tight, and even where there's a bit of give, the weld strips are offset, so no way you could run something under the track (and I don't think I'd want to and let grit and what not work under there).

What I think I can do is take a small section (say 2" in length) of small tubular webbing folded in half to form a loop. Use a hot awl to make a melted attachment hole, and then attach that webbing loop using a rivet. I can install one of these webbing loops on each side with just a single rivet per loop, and then use that as my anchors through which I can either just loop bungee cord or run more webbing with a buckle. I installed doubled-over tubular webbing with rivets as lash points below my gunnels on a canoe, and those have held up really well. Did that project years ago and had totally forgot about it!

As long as I can maneuver my drill in place to pre-drill the rivet holes, I think this will be a nice solution!

[Jim Krueger]

Lupe,

As one of your 'ex-engineering' friends, I really like the web through the rail solution the best for simplicity and strength, but you might have to shake the boat around to get the water out of that compartment sometimes. I have used pop rivets on many projects, especially those projects where there was no way to get access to the other side, they were as perfect as I was going to get. However, their holding power isn't what I'd like as much as a bolt, a pass-through-slot for webbing, or a conventional rivet 'peened in place'. Since all you are wanting to secure is a throw rope, or water bottle though, it won't be much of an issue at all, and I would think any of the suggestions would hold up fine.

Best Regards
Jim

[Jim E]

You can always melt a hole or slot through the plastic. I sometimes use a cheap soldering iron for this or you can can heat up an old knife. Done it in several boats and it works pretty good.

[Lupe]

I finally got around to making these modifications, and so I thought I would report back. I ended up using a mini butane torch with an attachment to heat the plastic, cutting slots through which I could work 3/4" webbing. Added a buckle, and now I have a way to secure my throw rope for quick access. The mini torch is small, so it was easy to maneuver in the small space, and the heated tip works through the hard plastic quite well.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... b80383e615
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... ceb1d9abd8
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... eb77d8966e

I'm still rather disappointed that Jackson failed to put a strap into their creek boat, and continues to show pictures of their boat that does at least have a bungee cord. I also have found their "new and improved" hip pads which now only attach with velcro along the top, do not stay in place very well, and so I also had to add a second strip of velcro to the seat pan walls and have to use old style hip pads that have velcro both top and bottom. For the price of the boat, these issues are pretty lame. I do like the design of the boat and how it paddles...but if I wanted to make this many modifications to a brand new boat, I would have gotten a canoe.

[Moniker]

Thanks for sharing that info,I had thought about buying a mini torch for soldering before but now I can buy one knowing it will be a tool for mutilple purposes.
I have a tool addiction and it dose'nt take much for me to say"I need that",but if I can use it for soldering or boat outfitting I have to have one.

[Owl]

For small slits like that one could also use a Dremel tool with the abrasive disk attachment.

cutoff disk.jpeg (6.75 KiB) Viewed 2566 times